Color oils - color and protection in one

Our modern color oils reflect the rich range of colors found in nature. They make it possible to add color even to native wood species and give furniture surfaces, stair treads, or parquet floors in bedrooms and living areas, kitchens, restaurants, or retail spaces an individual touch. However, there are several things to consider when applying color oil, and it requires skilled craftsmanship. 

High expectations

Coloring wood surfaces is highly demanding skilled work that should be reserved for professional applicators. Expectations for colored surfaces are extremely high and shaped by the range of industrially coated surfaces available. Applying color oil is not easy and should be carried out with the appropriate care to achieve a flawless surface result.

Sanding - the be-all and end-all

The requirements for the sanding pattern are extremely high, and sanding errors are strongly emphasized by color oils! The sanding must therefore always be carried out cleanly and be very even. In addition, the sanding must not be too coarse, because otherwise the color will excessively emphasize traces left by the sandpaper. On the other hand, it must not be too fine, as the color oil will then be unable to penetrate deeply enough into the wood.

White effects

White coloring effects such as Polar White or White Limed are a general exception. To achieve a whitewashed or limed effect, the wood surface should not be sanded too finely. Only then can the white pigments penetrate deeply into the surface.

The »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« in the »White Limed« finish contain white pigments that counteract the enhancement of the wood grain. However, the appearance of the wood is lightened (limed), the pores are subtly colored white, and they stand out on the surface. The »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« in the »Polar White« finish contain a higher proportion of white pigments, resulting in a clearly lightened wood appearance. However, when coloring white by hand, it is important to point out the differences compared with industrially whitened wood: it is difficult to compare with industrial processes.

Consider the wood species

Of course, the wood itself is a key factor. The color achieved on an oiled object depends largely on the wood's base tone, species, and condition. Highly absorbent beech in particular carries the risk that the resulting surface will become mottled and uneven. The same applies to very dense and light-colored woods, especially when they are intended to be given a dark color. The color difference between the natural wood and the desired color should not be too great. Open-pored oak or ash produces more favorable results because minor errors in the wood structure are concealed. 

Applying the color

The most important principle is that the color must be applied thinly and evenly. In addition, the color oil should only be applied at room temperature and shaken well before use. To avoid color differences, containers from different batches must also be mixed well before use. On furniture surfaces, the color oil is best applied with a brush in the direction of the grain. Rolling has proven effective for large surfaces such as parquet floors. It is applied from a bucket with a roller grid. Puddles and excessive application quantities must be avoided at all costs, as the excess is very difficult to remove. Particular attention should also be paid to the joints. If the joints are not sufficiently filled, they will stand out clearly and can also lead to considerable delays in drying. To achieve an even, seamless, cloud-free color, careful work must be carried out with a single-disc machine and pad. Work should always be carried out "wet" and continued until the surface appears dry.

Protection and care

Unlike smoking or thermal treatment, applying color oil does not result in coloring throughout the wood, but only colors the uppermost wood layers. This means that deep scratches or dents reaching into the uncolored wood layers should be avoided wherever possible, as otherwise the light-colored wood will become visible. Fine scratches can, however, be touched up locally. Any color difference will even out over time. Therefore, always keep the color oil used in its original sealed container for any repair work, as colors and formulations may change. Once you have decided to color the wood, that decision cannot be reversed after coloring. Even with the most careful sanding, the color can never be removed without leaving any residue. This is less of a problem with lightly colored floors; with dark colors, it will always be necessary to reapply color.

OLI-NATURA Project Oil, colored: pigmented oil with a solids content of 60% that protects from within. It does not form a surface film, but instead provides an open-pored impregnation. The oil contains isoparaffin and therefore penetrates the wood very well. It has consequently become particularly well established in cabinetmaking and is used especially for the initial treatment of furniture surfaces with color. A second application does not intensify the color.

OLI-NATURA HS Professional Oil, colored: High-Solid pigmented oils with a solids content of 95 %. After curing, almost 100 % of the oil also remains in the wood, providing excellent durability. The color effects are more rustic and emphasize the pores. Due to their high solids content,  High-Solid pigmented oils are also more "sluggish" to apply and should therefore preferably be worked into the wood by hand with a pad or using a polishing machine. This is the only way to achieve maximum saturation of the wood. It is particularly recommended for coloring parquet floors, corresponds to Giscode classification Ö20+, and complies with TRGS.

OLI-NATURA HS Hardwax Oil, colored: pigmented oil-wax combination with a High-Solid content of 95%.  While the oil preserves the wood from within, the wax remains as a thin layer on the wood surface. The result is highly elegant, even, full-surface color effects with a very pleasant-to-the-touch surface. It must be worked into the wood by hand with a pad or using a polishing machine; it is particularly recommended for coloring wooden stairs and parquet floors, corresponds to Giscode classification Ö20+, and complies with TRGS.