Oils known as "natural" or colorless oils are not pigmented. Nevertheless, the wood's grain and color are enhanced. The degree of enhancement depends on the type of oil and the wood used.

Please note that the colors shown may differ from the original depending on the monitor! They are merely intended as a non-binding guide to give you an impression of the color.

To obtain the correct impression of the color, the user should ideally apply a sample.

The color shade of an oiled object depends on several factors: the type, condition, and base tone of the wood, the user's individual working method, and the sanding of the wood.

The »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« in the »Natural« version are not pigmented. Nevertheless, they emphasize the grain and color of the wood. The degree of color enhancement depends on the type of oil and the wood species used.

The colored »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« add color to the wood. Their pigments preserve the wood's structural appearance and give the surface a natural coloration. At the same time, the UV-stable color pigments help counteract the wood's natural color change for as long as possible.

The »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« in the »White limed« version contain white pigments that counteract color enhancement. The appearance of the wood is lightened (limed), the pores are subtly colored white, and stand out on the surface.

The »OLI-NATURA Oils & Waxes« in the »Polar white« version have a high proportion of white pigments, achieving a noticeable lightening of the wood.

The standard colors from one product range can easily be mixed with one another, providing a wide variety of colors.

Surface preparation should always be carried out carefully to achieve an optimal surface result.

Changes in wood color are a natural process: dark wood becomes lighter over time, while light wood darkens. You can counteract the resulting color differences by exposing the wood evenly to light and not leaving objects in the same place for long periods. Softwoods such as pine and fir change color the fastest. Color changes can only be prevented entirely by protecting the furniture from sunlight. Pigmented oils also offer greater color stability and counteract the wood's natural color changes for as long as possible.

The causes of wood stains can be varied: From dyes contained in the wood that “bleed” to nails or fungi in the wood that cause blue or black discoloration. Tropical woods and thermally modified woods also contain natural dyes that are washed out of the wood by rain or watering and create stains.

Wood containing tannic acid (oak) reacts with iron-containing metal residues when exposed to water. This reaction appears as blue or black discoloration, which is often mistaken for fungal infestation. It is frequently caused by metalworking near the oak or metal residues in the sandpaper.

Undersaturation of the wood can also be a cause, as the wood no longer has sufficient protection. The protection of exterior wood must be renewed regularly.

If the surface feels evenly oiled or treated with oil/wax, ruling out the possibility that too little material was applied in some areas, an uneven sanding of the wood is the likely cause.

Sanding has a significant impact on the wood’s absorbency. Finely sanded areas absorb less oil and therefore appear lighter. The surface looks uneven, and sanding marks are generally clearly visible.

Very pronounced light-dark variations also occur when the old coating was not completely sanded off during renovation. No oil, or only very little, can penetrate these residual areas. This results in different accentuations of the wood color.

PREVENTION: This type of damage can ultimately only be prevented through careful preparation. The sanding sequence described in the Technical Data Sheets must be followed without fail.

REPAIR: This type of damage cannot be repaired through partial re-treatment. The entire surface must be sanded down and then re-oiled as described in the Technical Data Sheet. The grit sequence required for stepped sanding of the wood depends on the type of damage.

Raw veneer is nothing other than real wood, just thinner. Therefore, it can also be oiled or treated with hardwax oil like solid wood. The thinness must be taken into account, as it averages between 0.55 and 0.65 mm. Consequently, a veneered surface becomes saturated faster than solid wood. Apply the oil sparingly and remove the excess after a short absorption time.

Be careful when refinishing veneers that have already been surface-treated. The old coating would have to be sanded off completely, as coating residues would cause the subsequent oil treatment to appear patchy. Due to the low thickness of veneers, we consider proper wood preparation to be nearly impossible. Sanding through the veneer will hardly be avoidable.

The drying and usage properties of oils are largely determined by the proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, which react with atmospheric oxygen (oxidative curing) and are responsible for an oil’s ability to cure.

Olive oil, for example, never cures. Sunflower oils also contain a low proportion of unsaturated fatty acids and therefore dry only very slowly. They also soften again when heated, making them prone to developing a sticky, dirt-sensitive surface. Please also note that cooking oils often still contain protein-based mucilaginous or suspended substances that can turn rancid when used to treat wood.

OLI-NATURA oils contain a high proportion of drying linseed oils, wood oils, and modified natural resins. These components dry quickly and can no longer melt after curing. As a result, the surface is significantly less sensitive and easier to maintain.

Short description of boiled linseed oil

Boiled linseed oil is a natural wood preservative for indoor and outdoor use, consisting essentially of boiled linseed oil with a minimal amount of drying additive. After curing, it forms a clear, water-repellent protective layer. This is referred to as varnish; the term comes from the French word “vernis,” meaning “lacquer.”

What is the difference between linseed oil and boiled linseed oil?

Boiled linseed oil is essentially linseed oil with a drying agent added. As soon as a drying substance is added, the linseed oil becomes boiled linseed oil.

Which drier is added?

As a siccative, OLI-NATURA boiled linseed oil contains only 0.4% manganese drier from the latest generation. This drier is free of lead and cobalt and serves to accelerate curing.

How is boiled linseed oil produced?

To obtain linseed oil, the seeds of the flax plant are cold-pressed. In the case of flax, this is very efficient because the seeds consist of around 90% linseed oil. To prevent the oil from becoming rancid in the wood, it is purified, degummed, and finely filtered. To accelerate the curing process, the linseed oil is boiled and mixed with an accelerator (siccative). This turns the linseed oil into boiled linseed oil.

 Can I use boiled linseed oil as cooking oil? 

“Linseed oil as cooking oil” contains accompanying substances that are desirable for a healthy diet. In wood, however, they can become moldy or rancid. To prevent this, our boiled linseed oil is finely filtered, degummed, and given a minimal amount of drier. It should therefore not be used as cooking oil. This turns the linseed oil into boiled linseed oil.

Is boiled linseed oil toxic?

No, boiled linseed oil is essentially linseed oil with a drying agent added. It is therefore not toxic as a coating material. Once cured, boiled linseed oil complies with DIN EN 71-3 (safety of toys) and DIN 53160 (resistance to saliva and perspiration) and can be safely applied to wooden surfaces that come into contact with food. 

How long does boiled linseed oil take to dry?

Depending on humidity and temperature, the oiled surface is dust-dry after 1-2 hours and dry and recoatable after 16-24 hours. Complete curing is achieved after 21 days.  How quickly boiled linseed oil dries and cures essentially depends on three conditions: temperature, air humidity, and application thickness.  Since the oil cures by absorbing oxygen from the air, good ventilation and high temperatures promote the oxidative reaction. Low air circulation, high humidity, and low temperatures can slow down curing.  If too much boiled linseed oil is applied and the excess is not removed, the sticky surface may take a very long time to dry and cure.

Is boiled linseed oil suitable for cutting boards?

Yes, our boiled linseed oil is suitable for cutting boards and surfaces that come into contact with food. OLI-NATURA boiled linseed oil meets the requirements of the German Food and Feed Code (LFGB) for consumer products with regard to resistance to saliva and perspiration. This test is based on standards DIN 53160-1 and -2. In addition, after complete curing, it complies with DIN EN 71-3 (safety of toys).

What should be observed during application?

Boiled linseed oil can be easily applied with a cotton cloth or brush. Two to three coats are usually sufficient to achieve the desired appearance or saturation of the wood. The only thing to note is that after approximately thirty minutes, any excess oil that is no longer absorbed by the wood must be removed while still wet using an absorbent, lint-free cotton cloth.  Otherwise, it will remain as a sticky film on the surface and significantly delay drying.

What does boiled linseed oil smell like?  

The curing of linseed oil-varnish can also be monitored by smell. The odor is described in different ways: from spicy and hay-like to herbaceous and musty, or slightly fishy.  The characteristic linseed oil odor is particularly noticeable during oxidation and also depends on the type of wood used and the size of the surface. You either “love it at first scent” or wrinkle your nose. However, the odor is completely harmless and disappears once the oil has cured.

Is boiled linseed oil suitable for kitchen countertops?

Yes, our boiled linseed oil is suitable for kitchen countertops. It meets the requirements of the German Food and Feed Code (LFGB) for consumer products with regard to resistance to saliva and perspiration. This test is based on standards DIN 53160-1 and -2. In addition, after complete curing, it complies with DIN EN 71-3 (safety of toys).  Untreated solid-wood kitchen countertops can be quickly impregnated and protected with boiled linseed oil. Several coats are recommended until no more oil is absorbed.

Can I make half oil from boiled linseed oil?

Yes, adding orange oil or balsam turpentine turns boiled linseed oil into half oil. Mix boiled linseed oil 1:1 with orange oil or balsam turpentine. The solvent improves penetration and accelerates drying. This half oil is ideal for priming wood and other absorbent substrates such as plaster, cork, cement, and so on. Some users therefore apply half oil for the first coat and then use pure boiled linseed oil. Warming the boiled linseed oil also helps increase the penetration of the linseed oil.

Does boiled linseed oil change the color of the wood?

Boiled linseed oil contains no pigment. Nevertheless, it emphasizes the grain and color of the wood, enhancing its appearance. Particularly light-colored woods take on a warm honey tone. The resulting color and enhancement strongly depend on the base tone of the wood being oiled. After curing, boiled linseed oil forms a transparent, water-repellent protective layer.

Is there a risk of spontaneous combustion with boiled linseed oil?

Yes, oil-soaked rags and cloths can spontaneously ignite due to heat buildup. Boiled linseed oil cures naturally by absorbing oxygen from the air. This generates heat, which is normally released into the surroundings and is completely harmless. However, heat cannot escape from oil-soaked and crumpled rags, cloths, pads, or sponges, so under unfavorable conditions they may spontaneously ignite. Oily cloths or rags should therefore never be left unattended, but should be soaked with water, hung outdoors, and allowed to dry. Once treated in this way, they can be disposed of safely after drying. Alternatively, oil-soaked rags and sponges can be stored under water or temporarily kept in an airtight, sealable container. The product itself, however, is not self-igniting.

How do I clean the brushes?

To clean brushes and tools after applying OLI-NATURA boiled linseed oil, use OLI-NATURA Oil Thinner or a cleaner and thinner based on mineral spirits (also known as turpentine substitute).

If you want to treat the inside of the cabinet with oil, it is important that the oil can react with oxygen in the air to oxidize. To avoid preventing the oil from coming into contact with oxygen in the air, the drawers must remain fully open until the oil has cured completely. Otherwise, drying may be delayed and a persistent odor may develop.

Oils based on natural oils do not form a surface layer; instead, they provide an open-pored impregnation. They penetrate deep into the pores and reliably protect the wood from within. Impregnating oils generally have a low sheen, and the wood grain is emphasized with a rich, natural appearance.

Hardwax oils (oil plus wax), on the other hand, combine the properties of oils and waxes. While the oil preserves the wood from within, the wax remains as a thin layer on the wood surface. The result is a subtly shimmering sheen and a very durable surface.

Both types of oil are available in two different solids-content options: the Medium-Solid variant and the High-Solid variant.

A common mistake is applying too much oil / coats that are too thick, preventing the wood’s pores from absorbing any more oil - the wood is “oversaturated.” 

The oil can no longer cure properly inside the wood and remains as a sticky film on the surface.

Therefore, always remove any excess oil.

In this case, more oil was applied than the wood’s pores can absorb. The oil remains on the surface, and the top layer forms a viscoelastic film that blocks the underlying oil layer from exposure to oxygen in the air. This causes stickiness and a significant delay in curing.

ERROR PREVENTION: Apply the oil evenly in a thin layer and promptly remove excess oil that the wood no longer absorbs and that cannot be massaged in, using an oil-absorbing cloth or a cotton cloth, or remove it sharply with a rubber squeegee.

With pure oils, the protective effect and an even visual appearance are achieved when the wood surface is saturated.

If too little oil is applied, light spots often appear and the protective effect is not guaranteed. You can notice the wood's different absorption behavior as soon as the oil is applied. This can be compensated for by immediate re-oiling or redistribution.

With hardwax oils, the recommended application quantity should be checked based on the actual consumption, as otherwise the protective effect will not be provided and surface defects may occur. Here too, corrections can be made through timely re-oiling.

The consumption and coverage of the oil application depend, among other things, on the absorbency, type and condition of the wood, the user's working method, and the wood sanding. The guideline values may therefore vary.

Often also called anti-skinning agents. These additives are used to prevent skin formation on the surface of the oil in the sealed original container. In our OLI-NATURA oils & waxes, we use a oxime-free additive of the latest generation, whose effect is coordinated with the cobalt-free drier.

-> In oxidatively drying oils, opened containers react with the oxygen in the air inside the can, which can lead to skin formation. Opened containers should therefore be used up as quickly as possible, immediately resealed airtight, and protected from sunlight.

Dryers, also called accelerators. They are used to accelerate the oxidative cross-linking of drying oils, making them suitable for technically efficient use. We use only lead- and cobalt-free dryers of the latest generation.

Drying accelerator for oxidatively drying oils that accelerates the cross-linking reaction and thus shortens the curing time.   

Oli lacquers uses only lead- and cobalt-free drying agents.   

Oxidative drying is a special form of chemical cross-linking that applies to drying oils. During oxidative drying, the individual binder molecules bond with one another with the help of oxygen from the air as the cross-linking agent. This requires the presence of unsaturated fatty acids, such as those found in linseed oil, tung oil, or soybean oil. Oxidative drying is significantly accelerated by the use of drying agents.

Warning: Oxidative drying generates heat, which under certain circumstances can lead to spontaneous combustion. Oiled wood surfaces pose no danger because the heat can escape easily. However, special caution is required with oil-soaked rags. If they are stored or disposed of crumpled up, the heat cannot escape, which can cause heat buildup and thus spontaneous combustion. Therefore, always spread out used rags or soak them in water. Once dry, the rags can be disposed of safely and without any danger.

Reasons for delayed drying are often explained by over-oiling of the wood. Since the oil cures by absorbing oxygen from the air, good ventilation and high temperatures promote the oxidative reaction. Insufficient air supply, high humidity, and low temperatures, however, can slow down complete curing. Excessive wood moisture can also hinder complete curing.

Wood graying outdoors is a natural process caused by the breakdown of lignin in the wood due to exposure to UV radiation. Oiled wood also turns gray over time. Not everyone likes the natural patina. To prevent this discoloration, the natural wood color must be regularly refreshed with oil. In general, pigmented oils provide better UV protection and prevent natural graying for longer.

If the surface feels evenly oiled or oil-/wax-treated, ruling out the possibility that too little material was applied in some areas, an uneven sanding of the wood is the likely cause.  

Sanding has a significant effect on the wood’s absorbency. Finely sanded surfaces absorb less oil and therefore appear lighter. The surface looks uneven, and sanding marks are generally clearly visible.

Very pronounced light-dark variations also occur when the old coating was not completely sanded off during refurbishment. No oil, or only very little, can penetrate these residual areas. This results in different intensities of the wood color.

PREVENTION: Ultimately, this type of damage can only be prevented through thorough pretreatment. The sanding sequence described in the technical data sheets must be followed without fail. 

REPAIR: This type of damage cannot be repaired by treating only the affected areas. The entire surface must be sanded down and then re-oiled as described in the technical data sheet. The grit sequence required for the stepped sanding of the wood depends on the type of damage.

Natural oils and oil/wax systems have a characteristic odor that is particularly noticeable during oxidation and also depends on the type of wood and the surface area.

Usually, the odor diminishes once the oil has fully cured. Since the oil cures by absorbing oxygen from the air, good ventilation accelerates the oil's curing process.

Insufficient air supply, high humidity, and low temperatures, on the other hand, can slow the curing process and result in a long-lasting odor. Over-oiling the wood and excessive wood moisture can also hinder curing and lead to a long-lasting odor.

For cleaning brushes and tools after applying OLI-NATURA oils & waxes, we recommend our environmentally friendly OLI-NATURA brush cleaner or our OLI-NATURA oil thinner, as well as cleaners and thinners based on white spirit. OLI-NATURA Scandic Oil is a general exception. Normal water is sufficient for cleaning it.

First of all: Unlike with a coat of paint, superficial scratches or damage to an oiled wood surface do not expose unprotected wood, as the oil penetrates deep into the pores and protects the wood from within.

Damaged areas/scratches can therefore also be repaired easily: Depending on their depth, sand them partially with coarse sandpaper, then with fine sandpaper up to grit 180 or 220. Always sand in the direction of the wood grain. Sanding marks should no longer be visible. Then remove all dust thoroughly and simply re-oil the area. Any difference in color will even out over time.

If the surface feels evenly oiled or oil-/wax-treated, ruling out the possibility that too little material was applied in some areas, this strongly indicates uneven sanding of the wood.

Sanding has a major influence on the wood's absorbency. Finely sanded areas absorb less oil and therefore appear lighter. The surface looks uneven, and sanding marks are generally clearly visible.

Very pronounced light-dark variations also occur when the old coating material has not been completely sanded off during renovation. No oil, or only very little, can penetrate these residual areas. This results in different emphases of the wood's color tone.

PREVENTION: Ultimately, this type of damage can only be prevented through conscientious preparation. The sanding sequence described in the Technical Data Sheets must be followed without fail. 

REPAIR: This type of damage cannot be repaired by partial re-treatment. The entire surface must be sanded down and then re-oiled as described in the Technical Data Sheet. The grit to be used for stepped sanding of the wood depends on the type of damage.

Where the application requires a solvent content, we use only highly pure, medical-grade isoparaffin or dearomatized hydrocarbons.

The solvent optimizes the coating’s penetration and ensures that the oils, waxes, and resins can be applied and processed more easily.

Nowadays, fewer and fewer manufacturers use citrus or orange peel oils as an alternative solvent, as they contain a high proportion of terpenes that pose an allergy risk.

Tannic acid-containing wood (oak) reacts with iron-containing metal residues when exposed to water. This reaction appears as blue or black discoloration, which is often mistaken for fungal infestation. It is frequently caused by metalworking near the oak or metal residues in the sandpaper.

Ideally, use galvanized or stainless steel fittings and screws.

Pre-drilling is generally recommended for oak and other hardwoods; however, this does not prevent a tannic acid reaction, as a functional connection still requires contact with the wood.

Each type of wood has natural characteristics and its own absorption behavior, which largely determines how strongly and evenly the oil can penetrate the wood. Beech, for example, is a highly absorbent wood and absorbs oil to varying degrees in some areas. Oak and ash, on the other hand, behave more favorably. It also makes a difference whether you are oiling end grain or using solid wood or veneer. In addition, the sanding of the wood has a significant influence on its absorbency. In general, the finer the sanding, the less the wood can absorb.

Sticky surfaces are often caused by over-oiling the wood: more oil was applied than the wood can absorb and/or the excess was not removed. The oil can no longer cure properly because the layer is too thick, forming a sticky film on the surface.

It is therefore important to remove any excess oil that the wood can no longer absorb and that can no longer be rubbed in, while it is still wet, using an absorbent, lint-free cotton cloth.

Excessive wood moisture can also prevent proper oil absorption and cause stickiness. The same applies to insufficient airflow, high humidity, and low temperatures.

"Enhancement" or "permanent wet effect" are terms intended to vividly describe how the appearance of an oiled wooden surface differs from that of a raw surface.

Raw wood changes color when it becomes damp or wet. The wood tone appears significantly more intense and darker. The same thing happens when wood is oiled - except that, unlike with water, the effect remains even after drying. By simply dampening the wood with water, you can already anticipate the color tone after oiling.

The oil penetrates the pores and gives the wood greater depth and brilliance. And indeed: because the light refraction changes, we “see” deeper into the wood, making the color perception more intense and darker.

Anti-skinning agent / skin prevention agent / anti-skinning additive

Also often called a skin-prevention agent. These additives are used to prevent a skin from forming on the surface of the oil when it is stored in its sealed original container. In our OLI-NATURA oils & waxes, we use a oxime-free additive of the latest generation, whose performance is coordinated with the cobalt-free drier.

-> In oxidatively drying oils, a reaction with the oxygen in the air present in the can occurs once the container has been opened, which can lead to skin formation. Opened containers should therefore be used up as quickly as possible, resealed airtight immediately, and protected from sunlight.

Unfortunately, the term “High-Solid” is not standardized. Therefore, the distinction from the classifications is somewhat arbitrary and varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.

At Oli Lacke GmbH, oils with a solids content of nearly 100% are referred to as High-Solids . These oils include the abbreviation »HS« in the product-names and contain nearly 0% solvents.

After curing, 100% of the oil remains in the wood, providing excellent resistance. However, due to their high solids content, they are also more »sluggish« to apply and should therefore be worked into the wood by hand with a pad or using a polishing machine. This is the only way to achieve maximum wood saturation

The term “Medium-Solid” is not standardized. Therefore, the distinction from manufacturers’ classifications varies from one manufacturer to another.

At Oli Lacke GmbH, oils with a solids content of 60% are referred to as Medium-Solids .

As solvents, we use only highly pure isoparaffin of medical grade or dearomatized hydrocarbons. This solvent content serves as a “carrier”: it makes the oil significantly less viscous, allowing it to penetrate the wood much better and making application particularly easy. After the oil is applied, the solvent evaporates, allowing the oil component inside the wood to cure. One coat of oil provides sufficient basic saturation for furniture subject to normal use. To achieve greater wood saturation and thus greater resistance, a second coat is recommended for more heavily used surfaces such as tabletops.

The Decopaint Directive ChemVOCFarb is an EU product-related regulation designed to limit VOC emissions (emissions of volatile organic compounds) during manual application outside enclosed facilities - primarily on construction sites.

Maximum VOC limits were established for the most important film-forming architectural coatings, which must not be exceeded as of January 1, 2010.

Oils and waxes were explicitly excluded because they form only a minimal film and, unlike lacquers, penetrate deeply into the wood.

Regardless, the VOC values of OLI-NATURA High-Solid products are significantly below the strictest limits for clear lacquers.

DIBt is the abbreviation for “German Institute for Building Technology”.

Construction products must be assessed with regard to the health risks posed by substances they may release into indoor spaces. This is required by the Construction Products Act.

In 2002, the Committee for Health-related Evaluation of Building Products (AgBB) published an assessment scheme for testing and evaluating the release of volatile and semi-volatile organic compounds. The central testing method is a test chamber analysis of the construction products.

Since August 2004, the scheme has served as the basis for the health-related assessment of construction products during their approval by the German Institute for Building Technology.

All OLI-NATURA oils & waxes can also be used on kitchen countertops and cutting boards.

They meet the requirements of the German Food and Feed Code (LFGB) for consumer goods with regard to resistance to saliva and perspiration.

This testing is based on the DIN 53160-1 and -2 standards. In addition, after complete curing, they comply with DIN EN 71-3 (Safety of toys).

Special attention should be paid to oil-soaked rags and cloths, which can spontaneously combust due to heat buildup. Naturally drying oils harden by absorbing oxygen from the air. This generates heat, which is normally released into the surroundings and is completely harmless. However, in oil-soaked and crumpled rags, cloths, pads, or sponges, the heat cannot escape, meaning that in the worst case they can spontaneously combust. Oily cloths or rags should therefore never be left lying around carelessly; instead, soak them thoroughly with water, hang them outdoors, and let them dry. Treated this way, they can be disposed of safely once dry. Alternatively, oil-soaked rags and sponges can be stored under water or temporarily kept in an airtight, sealable container.

DIN EN 71-3 is a European standard with the status of a German standard and specifies a test method and limit values for the migration of toxic elements (including arsenic, barium, lead, cadmium, chromium, and mercury) from the surface of children's toys.

Diluted acid is used to simulate which substances would be released in the digestive tract if the toy were swallowed.

The requirements of DIN EN 71-3 are met only if all limit values are not exceeded.

DIN 53160 assesses two important criteria - saliva resistance and perspiration resistance - for determining the suitability of a wooden toy for children.

Essentially, the aim is to use a simulated test to ensure that no dyes from a colored wooden toy can be dissolved by saliva or perspiration and absorbed by the body through the mucous membranes of the mouth or the skin.

DIN 53160 is also frequently used as a supplementary reference when determining whether materials are suitable for wooden objects that come into contact with food.